Tibet Day #2: Lhasa

Today was slower-paced than yesterday, but I still found myself in an exhausted stupor by 4 pm (which was remedied by a 3 hour nap filled with vivid dreams of marketplaces, taxi drivers, and various acts of subterfuge).

We started the day at the summer palace of the Dalai Lamas, also known as Norbulingka. This estate was built by the 7th Dalai Lama after he recovered from a serious illness meditating in its vicinities. Norbulingka is essentially a sprawling park with a few residential buildings , and just as beautiful as any palace in Beijing. Extensive gardening and yardwork goes on during the spring, and we witnessed many workers planting new bulbs and trees, all of which sport the prettiest blooms. The weather was beautiful, the air was fresh, and it was a perfect day for strolling.

Siring gave us a little primer on Tibetan funerals as we walked among the shaded pathways and brightly colored houses. There are apparently four main kinds of burial: Earth, Fire, Water, and Sky. The last is the most uniquely Tibetan, and basically consists of putting your loved one - usually cut into smaller pieces - on top of the mountain where the vultures can carry their remains into the sky (and afterlife). Before the actual burial, the body must be consecrated by a holy monk within 3 days of death, and then rituals take place for 49 days to ensure that the deceased has a good afterlife.

After Norbulingka, we had a quick foray into the Sky Bead factory, which are modern versions of the ancient dzi beads (interesting article here). Dorelan got one with 6 eyes, which is purported to eliminate sadness and suffering, and Lydia and I both got 5-eyed stones, which guide you to happiness and wisdom.

The remainder of the day was spent at Sera Monastery, the first one built and once home to over 7,000 monks. Today, that number is reduced 10-fold to about 700 monks, but still impressive. Most join the order between the ages of 15-25, though technically anyone is eligible according to Siring. For 3 years, you learn about 1400 pages of holy text in isolation, then you engage in learning with other monks. This can take place in the form of a debate, which we got to witness while we were there. Imagine 100 red-robed monks conglomerated into a courtyard, the teachers standing, the pupils sitting, each arguing heatedly in a foreign tongue. Very cool.

Tomorrow, we make the 6 hour trip to Shigatse, the traditional seat of the 2nd highest-ranking Lama, the Panchen Lama.