We started with Potola Palace, the seat of the Dalai Lama, built in the 7th century by the 5th Dalai Lama, and the original palace after Tibetan Buddhism moved to Lhasa. At the entrance, it really didn't look very impressive: the doorway was stained in the way of poor maintenance and a storm cloud was brewing in the sky. Cross the threshold though, and it was like entering into Narnia. The interior courtyard was flooded with the full force of the sun, every gorgeous plant was in bloom, and the palace itself was shining like a real-like Shangri-La. I quickly discovered that I LOVE Tibetan colors: the rich reds, the ebullient oranges, and the pristine whites spell out joy and comfort. Every house had picture windows, many adorned with potted plants jutting out as proudly as Dutch tulips. I could have spent an hour just wondering in the courtyard alone.The inside of the palace was impressive, but cramped and ornate in a way that made me feel somewhat oppressed. The pugent smell of yak butter being burned as religious offerings permeated the air, sometimes so thick that I had to cover my nose. I didn't particularly enjoy watching poor Tibetans throw their money at gigantic tombs worth millions of dollars, but I suppose worse things have been done in the name of religion.
Lunch was at a Tibetan restaurant with some good local fare and an English menu. I had a very well-flavored beef and onions, Dorelan got some yak-stuffed pancakes, and Lydia had yak stew. Yak may be my new favorite red meat; it is gamey, pungent, and eaten in chunks, unprocessed. It was just the meal we wanted before we headed out for the Jokhang Temple and it's equally expansive Barkhor Circuit.
Now Jokhang Temple is not nearly as big as Potola, but this is the place to which devout Buddhists make their pilgrimages. Inside is a giant golden buddha (called the Golden Jokhama) brought to Tibet by the Chinese wife of the 5th Dalai Lama, Princess Wencheng. The Barkhor Circuit (which is now a marketplace, essentially) surrounding the Temple is also where Buddhist make their daily kora with their prayer wheels, and even during the day, there were many doing just that. The interior of Jokhang is not really worth mentioning; like Potola, it is a series of small rooms each with many religious relics and paintings and various offerings on display. I much prefer being outside in Tibetan religious buildings. On Jokhang's roof, the flooring was being repaired, and we got to observe a traditional Tibetan work song as the workers stamped out imperfections with the wooden mallets.
We opted to go explore Tibet by ourselves for the rest of the day, and let Siring go. Mainly, we wanted to shop around and people watch in Barkhor, which is a GREAT place to do both. I didn't try to bargain as hard as I probably could have, but that's my reward to nice shopkeepers. I nearly lost Lydia and Dorelan in the 2.5 mile shopping circuit, but luckily found them again after AN HOUR of searching. Note to self: never separate from your friends again while shopping! Stopped by at a Nepalese place recommended by the Lonely Planet for dinner, and like I said, I could eat Nepalese happily for a while. Yum yum curry! Best of all, Dorelan got her coveted yak butter tea, which tasted like salty disgustingness to me, but heaven to her. To each their own.
On the way home, we realized that the path to our hotel had become a GIGANTIC hole, and I very nearly fell to my death carrying my precious souvenirs with me. Apparently, construction is going to be a better part of our lives than we had wanted. Still, very happy with the sights and items I had acquired for the day, and eager to explore more of Lhasa tomorrow!
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